Calgary, Canada
(*cruise tour)
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Calgary is Alberta's largest city and is located near where the prairies end and the foothills begin. That makes it the eastern gateway to the Rocky Mountains and an important center of trade and tourism for the western prairies. It is your best point of access for Banff and Jasper, and a worthwhile destination in its own right. Calgary is the heart of the largest metropolitan area between Toronto and Vancouver.
Calgary was founded by the Northwest Mounted Police (NWMP) in 1875 and was originally called Fort Brisebois. (The name was changed to Fort Calgary in 1876, named after Calgary Bay on the Isle of Mull.) The NWMP was sent west to ensure that Canada would not have an American-style "Wild West." Grave concerns about this were raised after the Cypress Hills Massacre of natives by drunken wolf hunters in 1873. Calgary was one of several forts established in Western Canada... Read more
Calgary is Alberta's largest city and is located near where the prairies end and the foothills begin. That makes it the eastern gateway to the Rocky Mountains and an important center of trade and tourism for the western prairies. It is your best point of access for Banff and Jasper, and a worthwhile destination in its own right. Calgary is the heart of the largest metropolitan area between Toronto and Vancouver.
Calgary was founded by the Northwest Mounted Police (NWMP) in 1875 and was originally called Fort Brisebois. (The name was changed to Fort Calgary in 1876, named after Calgary Bay on the Isle of Mull.) The NWMP was sent west to ensure that Canada would not have an American-style "Wild West." Grave concerns about this were raised after the Cypress Hills Massacre of natives by drunken wolf hunters in 1873. Calgary was one of several forts established in Western Canada by the NWMP to ensure a police presence before the arrival of settlers.
In 1883, the railway reached Calgary. It started to grow in every direction and became an agricultural and business hub. In 1884, Calgary was incorporated as a town in what was then the North West Territories. By 1894, Calgary's population had grown to 3900 people, and it was incorporated as a city.
Alberta's first major oil and the natural gas field was discovered in 1914 at Turner Valley, 60 km south of Calgary. Subsequent discoveries kept the oil and gas scene active in the Turner Valley area for the next 30 years. When the Turner Valley fields were depleted, the next major oil and gas find was at Leduc (near Edmonton) in 1947. By then, Calgary was already established as a center of oil and gas business.
During the 1950s, oil became big in Calgary, and major American oil companies started heading to Calgary and opening offices. The boom extended into the next twenty years, bringing the city to 720,000 people in the metro area by 1985. The relatively low-key low-rise downtown became filled with a sea of skyscrapers, starting with the Calgary Tower and some other towers in the 1960s. By the 1980s, Calgary's luck turned, and a drop in oil prices sent the Calgary metro economy downward. Unemployment raged, vacancies surged, and growth was slow or even negative in some years.
In 1988, Calgary hosted the Winter Olympics and brought world attention to Calgary. By the 1990s, it was on the rebound and began growing again. Calgary today has become a more cosmopolitan city of over one million inhabitants with genuine attempts to diversify its economy and expand its attractiveness to outside visitors.
The Beltline and 17th Avenue: 17th Avenue SW is Calgary's première place to see and be seen. It boasts a large and eclectic variety of restaurants, unique shops, boutiques, and bars. This street is where Calgary parties, most notably becoming the "Red Mile" during the 2004 Stanley Cup ice hockey playoffs, where up to 100,000 cheering fans gathered to celebrate victories by the hometown NHL Calgary Flames. While the Beltline spans from the Stampede Grounds and Victoria Park on the east to Mount Royal on the west, the dense nightlife on 17th Avenue starts at about 2nd Street SW and goes to 15th Street SW.
Bridgeland (Edmonton Trail on the west, Tom Campbell's Hill on the east, Bridge Crescent NE on the north, and the Bow River/Memorial Drive/Zoo on the south) is an urban revitalization area northeast of the downtown. Although the community has long been Calgary's "Little Italy" (hence the abundance of Italian restaurants in the area), the demolition of the old General Hospital in 1998 sparked a long-term project redevelop much of the era. The area is expected to be a family-oriented Pearl District (see Portland, Oregon) and the initial phases are already done. The area includes posh shops, chic apartments, and beautiful lofts while maintaining the old charm of the distinct houses. Eventually, the neighborhood will have more shops and some high rise buildings. It is a great area to walk through for those interested in architecture and planning. The far eastern end of Bridgeland connects with the Calgary Zoo and the newly opened TELUS Spark science center.
Inglewood: Inglewood is Calgary's oldest neighborhood and the site of the city's original downtown. It is also one of Calgary's most culturally influenced and eclectic areas. Inglewood contains everything from stores targeted at bikers, to unique boutiques, antique stores, galleries, and restaurants. It is not as developed as some of the city's downtown districts, but it is quickly becoming one of the city's most popular "urban chic"neighborhoods. It lies immediately east of downtown (east of 1st Street E) and is concentrated along 9th Avenue SE. Just to the north is the Bow River and the Calgary Zoo.
Forest Lawn International Avenue. Forest Lawn is known for its diverse culture, with the city's best Vietnamese, Lebanese, and Central American eateries lining 17th Avenue SE between 26th St SE and 61 St SE. The nightlife of this area is a place to exercise caution. There are many pawn shops that line the streets if you're looking for a deal.
Kensington. Kensington is located along the Bow River on the north side of downtown. It is another one of Calgary's notable shopping neighborhoods, with a somewhat more bohemian feel than 17th Avenue (one particular store specializes in Birkenstocks and futons). It offers a good variety of restaurants, with more of an emphasis on coffee shops than on bars. Kensington runs along Kensington Road NW from 14th St NW to 10th St NW, and also north along 10th St NW to 5 Ave NW.
McKenzie Towne is located on the southeastern outskirts of Calgary (accessible via Deerfoot Trail and McKenzie Towne Boulevard). An exception to the "dull suburb" stereotype, this planned community features parks and classical home facades that come right out of a Norman Rockwell painting. Anchoring the area is High Street, a shopping center disguised as a classic small-town main street. Worth checking out if you've rented a car to visit Spruce Meadows.
Marda Loop/Garrison Green (east of Crowchild Trail along 33rd Avenue SW), which contains a large number of quaint shops, restaurants, and services and is a real up and comer area and would be a great place to check out. Marda Loop, centered on the intersection of 33rd Avenue and 20th Street SW, is the older of the two areas and in mid-August hosts the Marda Gras Street Festival along 33 Avenue between 19 Street and 23 Street SW. Garrison Green is a newly developed residential/shopping district immediately to the south of 32 Avenue that features its mix of eclectic shops and old-towne storefronts.
Mission: The Mission district was established as a French and Catholic settlement (later called Rouleauville) at the same time that Calgary was founded. Historic displays at Rouleauville Square and the Elbow River Promenade tell the story of the area. In many ways, Mission acts as an extension of 17th Avenue. Like the Beltline, it is packed full of interesting restaurants and shops. It does not share 17th Avenue's late-night reputation, however, and it generally lacks the bars and nightclubs. Mission extends from 4th Street SW to 1st Street SE and from 17th Avenue SW in the north to 26th Avenue and the Elbow River in the south.
Mount Royal is a neighborhood south of the downtown with charming old homes on winding streets. The area houses some of Calgary's elite. It is a nice area to do a quiet stroll through, admiring old residences. Driving around the community can be challenging due to the preponderance of calming traffic measures and street closures to prevent cut-through traffic.
Parkhill is a neighborhood south of downtown. It is a quite wealthy area that once had many old homes. Today it is home to a range of modern designs, with few old homes still standing. It's a very interesting neighborhood to visit.
Calgary is sunny and rather dry, with wide seasonal and daily temperature ranges. Summers tend to be sunny and mild, with highs averaging about 23°C (73°F) in July/August, usually accompanied by short afternoon storms. June is normally the wettest month. Hot weather (greater than 30°C / 86°F) is rare, occurring on average five times a year. Also, temperatures typically drop dramatically on wet days as well; there's always a couple of days in the summer months that barely manage highs over 10°C (50°F)).
Winter can also vary quite a bit. Temperatures can get extremely cold (below -20°C / -4°F) at times between November and March, while -30°C (-22°F) is possible (on average five times a year). Though average highs in January are about -2°C (28°F) based on a current 30-year average, there's nothing average with Calgary's weather. Because of the regular but unpredictable chinooks (warm Pacific winds), there's no guarantee of when the cold weather may strike. One of coldest months in the last ten years was a March (about -6°C / 21°F for average high), while one January was very mild (+6°C / 43°F average high). Temperatures can swell into the 15°C (59°F) range one day, and drop back into the sub-zero (sub 32°F) temperatures several days later. A typical chinook rolls in fast and is very windy. The warming effects will usually linger for several days to more than a week. In strong chinooks, you can see a chinook arch to the west: an arch of cloud with clear sky below. Calgary can be very dry in winter, with humidity as low as 20%, causing dry skin and making it challenging for contact lens wearers.
Regardless of the time of year, temperatures usually drop quickly at night. Lows in summer hover around 8°C (46°F), while in winter they average about -13°C (9°F). Because of the higher elevation and dramatic temperature drops, snow can fall as late as June and as early as September. These unseasonable snowfalls usually result in just a trace of snow on the ground which soon melts.
Because of the temperature variation, having a variety of clothes is essential at all times in the year. Pack everything from shorts and sandals to light, windproof jacket or fleece for visits from mid-May to mid-October. From mid-October to mid-May, you may need clothes ranging from T-shirts to fleece/ski jackets, gloves, winter hats, and scarves. There's not typically a lot of snow on the ground in winter, because Calgary is located in a very dry region of North America and the regular chinooks melt any snow. This means that heavy or waterproof winter boots aren't usually needed. The nearby Rockies are typically cooler year-round, so plan accordingly for any day trips.
First-time visitors to Calgary should be careful to bring sunglasses (even in winter) and prepare for very low humidity by bringing at least some chapstick, which most Calgarians carry at all times in winter.
Many Calgarians are understandably proud of the city's collection of skyscrapers. What's more impressive are the clear views you can get downtown from certain spots around the city, sometimes with the mountains in the background.
While Calgary is no Rome, Tokyo, or Paris for architecture, Calgary does have some interesting highlights for those interested in architecture. The Bow is a modern masterpiece of glass and steel and would be a shame to miss. (But really how could you? The crescent-shaped Bow building pierces through the skyline from pretty much any angle). Stephen Avenue 1 (8th Ave S in the downtown core) and Atlantic Avenue (9th Ave S in Inglewood) both have an abundance of tightly packed, small, old commercial buildings with great architectural details; follow the links for downloadable self-guided historic walking tours. Calgary's Peace Bridge, a pedestrian bridge crossing the Bow River from the downtown core, opened in 2012. It was designed by Santiago Calatrava and is a change from the cable-stayed bridges he is known for. The Calgary Tower is a beautiful early modern tower with a minimalist design. Even if you don't care about the design, you shouldn't miss the views from the top. Talisman Centre, a large sports complex opposite the Stampede grounds just south of the downtown core, has a unique arch-shaped roofline which is the suspension point for a fabric roof. One could also stroll the construction mazes of Macleod Trail and Scarth St/1 Street SE for many beautiful modern condominiums. Out in suburbia, the pyramid-shaped Fish Creek Library (near Southcentre Mall) is a local landmark.
Calgary has a very vibrant theatre scene. It seems that Calgary has the live theatre for every taste: avante-garde (One Yellow Rabbit), traditional (Theatre Calgary, ATP), mystery (Vertigo), lunch breaks (Lunchbox), improv (Loose Moose), clown arts (Green Fools), and more. The two daily newspapers provide some theatre coverage, but the best coverage and listings are found in a free weekly Fast Forward magazine.
Calgary offers a wide variety of dining options. While Calgary doesn't have a single signature dish, residents are very proud of Alberta beef, and Calgarians are discerning clients of steakhouses. Speaking of beef, the popular Chinese-Canadian dish of ginger beef was invented in Calgary in the 1970s. Chocolaterie Bernard Callebaut (also called Cococo), the winner of international awards for chocolate-making, is based in Calgary, with many stores in the city.
Calgary is also home to a very culturally diverse population, with a very wide selection of international restaurants, especially from East and Southeast Asia, and the Mediterranean from Italy through Lebanon. Calgary is, however, generally lacking in decent Mexican food (see exceptions below), and the inland location means that a good meal of seafood is sometimes hard to find.
Restaurants in the downtown area are very busy between noon and 1 PM on weekdays due to the lunch crowd of office workers; if you can, try to stagger your lunch to start around 11:15 or 1:30. You'll face much shorter lineups. Buffets are often only prepared once for lunchtime, and visiting a buffet after 12:15 or so will typically be a depressing dining experience.
Calgary is also the city of founding for major Canadian restaurant chains Hy's, Original Joe's, and Moxies. (The original Calgary Hy's Steakhouse closed in 2006.)
Calgary's most abundant ethnic specialty is Vietnamese. Most neighborhoods have at least one Vietnamese noodle shop or Vietnamese sub (banh mi) joint. See the "Take Out Only" section below for some more budget options.
Calgary is the original home of the Caesar cocktail, sometimes called Canada's national cocktail. There are many bars located throughout the city, although the core is where the trendiest clubs are located. There is also the ever-popular 17th Avenue SW, home to the Red Mile.
Although Calgary is generally a very safe place, walking at night should be avoided in the East Village and Victoria Park areas of downtown (generally speaking, this is the area adjacent to the Stampede Grounds and north to the Bow River). Calgary's 2011 murder rate of 1.1 murders per 100,000 inhabitants was, for example, roughly one-tenth the murder rate of Minneapolis and one-twentieth that of Memphis. Always keep your wits about you when the bars close, regardless of the area of town.
Calgary drivers are typical drivers for a mid-sized western North American city. Culturally, Calgary is a mash-up of small-town culture and big city living, and driving in Calgary is no exception. If you come from a small town in rural North America, the drivers would be considerably more aggressive than you are used to. If you are from a larger busier urban area or are from Europe for instance, Calgary drivers can be considered quite timid and under-skilled. A driver from New York, London or even Montreal and Toronto would consider the Calgary driver to lack confidence more than anything. Calgarians are generally quite aware of pedestrians and usually give pedestrians right of way, as required by law. Calgarians are generally safe and cautious (some consider overly cautious) drivers, though. Note though that Calgarians are probably some of the best inclement weather drivers in the world. Blizzards, storms, floods, etc. are where Calgary drivers shine compared to the rest of the world's drivers, and they can navigate them safely with the minimum of problems.
Calgary freeways are nowhere near as congested and confusing as L.A. freeways or the 401 in Toronto, but Deerfoot Trail (nicknamed the "Deerfoot 500" by locals) is to be avoided if you're not comfortable with 100 km/h freeway driving, and even by experts at rush hour (accidents occur on a daily basis). A second freeway, Stoney Trail, now exists on the northwest, north, and east sides of the city providing an alternate, less hectic route.
Be aware of lengthy wait times at the emergency rooms of the city's hospitals. It may take 1 to 2 hours or more to see an emergency doctor. (Note: this is a province-wide problem.) There is a web page where Alberta Health tracks the current wait times for Calgary emergency departments.
Panhandlers are a sight in Calgary's downtown core. The majority of them just need to be told 'No,' but some can be persistent. A great number of agencies exist to assist the disadvantaged in Calgary, and true charity cases receive assistance from them regularly; money is far better spent donating to these agencies as it ensures that those truly in need will receive it. For that reason, visitors are encouraged not to give money to strangers in the street. Panhandlers have also been found at signalized intersections, holding a cap or hand out to drivers stopped at red lights.
Take care when crossing LRT (tram) tracks, as the trains are quiet. There are no electrified rails. There are usually bells and barriers at pedestrian crossings; heed them.
Boaters on the Bow River should note the Calgary White Water Park (Harvie Passage) located just downstream of the Calgary Zoo; heed the warning signs. People have perished here, the strongest swimmers among them.
Winter driving always requires caution. The key to winter driving is to slow down, as the main hazard in winter is slippery roads due to snow, ice, or slush. Remember, your vehicle – whether it's a compact car or an SUV – relies on four surfaces, each the size of the palm of your hand, to grip the road. When you drive faster or drive on a slippery surface, that means less traction. So the solution for slippery roads is to slow down to give your car a better grip on the road surface. (Winter tires help too: If renting a car in winter, request winter tires, because not all rental cars have winter tires equipped.) In the worst winter driving conditions, you may see drivers on 100 km/h roads drop down to 60 km/h for safety. By slowing down and significantly increasing your following distance, you can safely navigate through most winter road conditions. Winter road conditions are available online from Alberta Transportation and the Alberta Motor Association.
Although Calgary doesn't get a lot of heavy snow, temperatures below freezing can allow ice to form on many roads. The most dangerous condition is when the ice is a clear sheet which resembles the road, called "black ice." Black ice is most commonly seen on bridge decks and other elevated roadways such as on- and off-ramps, where the road surface cools more quickly and so is more prone to freezing. Black ice most dangerous times to drive in these conditions are the two or three days immediately following the first major snowfall of the year. Black ice can also form after a period of warmer weather, such as in late fall, early spring, or after a winter chinook, when melting snow can turn to ice overnight. Freezing rain is not often seen in the Calgary area, but sometimes happens in late fall or early spring, when an evening shower is followed by overnight lows that drop below freezing, covering the roads with ice.
Weather in Calgary is unpredictable from fall through spring. It is always best to dress in layers and come prepared for extremes, even within the same day.
LOCAL TIME
3:45 pm
July 2, 2022
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LOCAL CURRENCY
CAD
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